Workbench Guides · Painting
How to Thin Miniature Paints
Thin paint is the single biggest step up most painters ever make. Here's how to thin miniature paints: why it keeps your detail sharp, what consistency to aim for, water or medium, and why two thin coats always beat one thick one.
"Thin your paints" is the advice every painter hears first, and the one most of us ignore for a while. Then one day you try it properly, and the brush marks vanish, the detail stays sharp and the whole miniature looks smoother.
It sounds fiddly, but it's really just a drop of water and a bit of mixing on the palette. This guide shows you how thin to go, what to thin with and how to put it on, so you can skip the lumpy phase and get straight to the good bit.
What you need
- Your paints.
- A palette: a ceramic tile, an old plate or a wet palette.
- Clean water, or a thinning medium if you have one.
- A brush, and kitchen roll to wipe it on.
A wet palette keeps thinned paint workable for much longer. Our wet palette guide shows you how to make one.
Why thin your paints
Sharper detail and a smoother finish. That's the whole reason, and it's a good one.
Paint in the pot is thick on purpose. It keeps the pigment from settling and stops it drying out. But straight onto a miniature, that thickness becomes a problem. It sits on top of the surface instead of flowing over it, fills the fine detail and dries with ridges where the brush went.
Thinned paint flows. It settles into a thin, flat skin that follows every ridge, rivet and fold, so the detail the designer sculpted is still there when you've finished. Resin miniatures have a lot of very fine detail, so this matters even more.
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Thick coat versus thin coats. Thick paint fills the gaps and leaves lumps and brush marks. Thin coats follow the surface, and the detail stays crisp.
The right consistency
Like milk for basecoats, thinner still for glazes.
The classic advice is "thin it to the consistency of milk", and it's classic because it works. Milky paint flows off the brush smoothly, covers in two coats and doesn't leave ridges. That's the target for basecoats and most everyday painting.
For glazes, you go thinner, more like skimmed milk. A glaze is a see-through layer that tints the colour underneath, great for smoothing out a blend or deepening a shade. Go thinner than that and you've got coloured water, which runs into every recess and dries in rings.
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From the pot to water. Each stroke is brushed over black and white stripes. Milky paint covers well in a thin layer; skimmed milk is see-through, which is what you want for a glaze.
The stripe test
Paint a stroke over something black and white. Milky basecoat paint should mostly hide the stripes in one coat and fully in two.
Watch it come off the brush
It should flow smoothly from the tip, not drag, and not flood out the moment it touches.
Every paint is different
Brands and even colours vary. Whites and yellows often need a little less water, so judge by eye, not by a recipe.
Thin it on the palette
A blob of paint, a little water, a quick mix. Never in the pot.
Always thin your paint on the palette, a little at a time. Add water to the pot and you can't take it back out. The whole pot is now thinner than you wanted, the pigment can separate, and you've lost the thick paint you needed for next time.
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Three steps, all on the palette. A small blob of paint, a little water or medium, then mix with the brush until it flows like milk. The pot stays exactly as it was.
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Put a small blob on the palette
Take paint from the lid or the dropper, a pea-sized blob at most. You can always add more.
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Add a little water
Dip the brush in water and touch it to the blob. As a rough starting point, try about as much water as paint, then adjust.
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Mix and test
Stir it with the brush, then try a stroke on the edge of the palette. Too thick? A touch more water. Too runny? A touch more paint.
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Wipe the brush before it touches the miniature
Drag the side of the brush on kitchen roll so it isn't overloaded. A loaded brush floods the detail, however well thinned the paint is.
Water or medium?
Water is all you need for basecoats and everyday painting. It's free, it's on tap, and it works.
For very thin layers like glazes, a thinning medium is worth having. Water thins the paint, but it also weakens the binder that holds the pigment together, so heavily watered paint can go patchy, chalky or bead up on the surface. A medium thins the paint while keeping the binder strong. Some painters mix a little of both. If you start using an airbrush, its paint needs thinning too, and our airbrush guide covers that.
Two thin coats, not one thick
The first coat looks patchy. That's not a mistake, it's the plan.
The moment most people give up on thin paint is right after the first coat. It looks streaky, you can see the primer through it, and the pot of thick paint is right there. Resist. Let it dry and go again. The second thin coat evens everything out, and you end up with a smooth, solid colour that still shows every detail.
One thick coat covers in one go, but it covers the detail too. It also dries slower, shows brush marks and can crack or peel on edges that get handled. The same idea works for primer, varnish and almost everything else on the painting table, and our first miniature guide puts it all together, step by step.
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Patchy, then perfect. One thin coat looks patchy, two look smooth and even. One thick coat covers, but leaves Bob lumpy and blurred.
Let each coat dry before the next. Painting into a coat that's still wet drags it about and lifts it off. Thin paint dries quickly, so it's usually only a few minutes.
Thinned it right?
- Paint on the palette, not straight from the pot?
- Water added a little at a time?
- Flowing like milk for basecoats?
- Thinner still for glazes, with a medium if you have one?
- Brush wiped before it touches the miniature?
- Two thin coats, with the first left to dry?
Never do this
Pour water into the pot
Now you own one pot of very sad, very pale paint, and no way back. Thin it on the palette.
Paint it on like icing
Bob had some lovely chainmail once. Now he has a smooth blue jumper. Thin coats keep the detail.
Flood it with water
If it runs off the brush and into every gap before you've finished the stroke, that's a puddle, not a coat.
Give up after one coat
The first coat always looks rubbish. That's the rule. Coat two is where the magic happens.
Lick the brush to a point
Paint is not a flavour. Roll the tip on kitchen roll or the edge of the palette instead.
Paint the next coat while it's wet
You're not adding a layer, you're stirring the first one. Give it a few minutes and a cup of tea.
Quick answers
The short version
Milky paint, two coats
Put a small blob of paint on the palette, add a little water and mix it until it flows like milk. Go thinner for glazes, with a thinning medium if you're adding a lot. Wipe the brush before it touches the miniature, and never add water to the pot.
Then paint two thin coats, letting the first one dry even though it looks patchy. That's how to thin miniature paints, and it's the habit that makes everything else easier.
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